Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Western States 100 2013 Race Report


Western States 100 2013 Race Report

Prologue: We run ultramarathons for many reasons. We love the adventure. We need the stress relief. We enjoy the solitude, and/or the camaraderie. But at its heart the lure of the ultra is simpler than these things. The essence of the ultra is the opportunity to test ourselves. We run 100km or 100 miles because we know that no matter how strong we are, the trail will test our limits. If we prepare adequately and have a sensible plan, there is a decent chance that we will be able to pass to the test. And then again, maybe not. We don’t know. Uncertainty gives the test value. No-one wakes up knowing that they will be able to run 100 miles that day. Maybe they will, maybe they won’t. Let’s lace up our shoes and find out.

I’ve been running ultras for three years, and marathons for a few years before that. But I’d never run 100 miles. On June 29-30 2013, not only did I have a chance to test myself over that distance, but due to one slip of paper among many being pulled out of a barrel, I had the chance to do that at the oldest of them all, the Western States Endurance Run. Running across the Sierra Nevada mountains from Squaw Valley to Auburn, Western States is the race that everyone wants to run. It was an exciting prospect, but also a source of anxiety. Could I run 100 miles in under 30 hours? I really didn’t know. But I wanted to find out, and I wanted to find out at States.

Before the race: Three weeks before the race, I was feeling really confident. As I’ve noted elsewhere on this blog, I’d had a great block of training in the heat and humidity of a Hong Kong summer, in which it was hard to get really big mileage (maxed out at about 70 miles a week over the last month), but each mile required huge effort in the tropical heat. I’d been out with running partners that I considered benchmarks, and I measured up well. I spent 10 and a half hours on Lantau Island on the hottest and most humid day of the year, which almost killed me, but didn’t. I figured if I could survive that, I could survive anything.

To give my body time to recover from all this training I cut back on my miles during the three weeks before the race. I hoped this would energize me. Instead, I struggled. I felt that I should be gaining energy but instead I just felt tired. My calves kept twitching, a reminder that they are susceptible to cramp. I got weird pains in my knees when I did run, and an irritation behind my right shin, and I worried that these would fell me before 100 miles was up. And after resisting illness for four months, each member of my family came down with something different, and I worried that I would show up on race day with a heavy cold or nauseous stomach.

It was great getting to the US a few days before the event, but my foreboding continued. I met with the awesome ladies from Folsom Trail Runners who would be my crew and pacers, and had a good couple of days at Squaw Valley, exploring Lake Tahoe. However, my family and I were jetlagged all week, and I averaged about four hours sleep each night. What kind of preparation was that for spending 30 hours on the trail?

 The crew (minus Michelle) is ready for action!



Nice and relaxed with the family the night before the start

Start to Red Star Ridge (Mile 16; 8.35am; 211th place): I tossed and turned on the final night, and woke before my alarm which was set to 3am. I was staying right in the village so I was immediately in the throng of runners. I met my crew of Chrissy, Kristina, and Charito (who would pace me, along with Michelle); they successfully buoyed my spirits. It was fairly cool at 50°F (10°C), but we all knew the heat was coming. Mainly, I couldn’t believe that I was at the start line, and that, after six months of preparation, I was about to start the long journey to Auburn. I’d managed to eat two huge bowls of oatmeal so was feeling nicely full. I saw some friends and we wished each other well. Time to run.

The gun went off at 5am, and we ran about half a mile, until the climb started. One of the many famous components to States is that you do the biggest climb in the first 3.5 miles of the course, up through the Squaw Valley ski field. My plan was to take it easy, not worry about placing in the field, and mainly conserve energy. But as I powerhiked, I noticed that most of the field had passed me, and I couldn’t help giving a little more effort. I wanted to be in the middle of the field, not at the tail end, so I gave an extra push. I passed my friend Alex Tunik, also from Hong Kong, and we nervously wished each other luck. Up and up we went, occasionally turning around to take in the magnificent views of dawn over Lake Tahoe. Wow. Then, after about an hour, I made it to the top of the mountain, and went over the hill into the Granite Chief Wilderness. In terms of views, this was probably my favorite section of the course, not spectacular like the mountain peaks of the European Alps or New Zealand (where I’ve run other races), but just really rugged and remote. Long, sweeping hillsides stacked on top of each other for as far as the eye can see. And a nice, descending single track that takes you back to the 6000 feet that you started at over the course of the next seven miles or so.
Going up the first hill (I'm in the blue shirt!)

 Looking back at Lake Tahoe in the dawn light as we climb the Escarpment

Granite Chief Wilderness

 More wilderness

Hiking the hills (Credit: Facchino Photography)

In this section I initially got a little stuck in one of the famous conga lines, but I had decided previously that I would not fight against it, and instead would just wait until the track widened. This saw me go a little slower than I wanted for an hour or so after the top of the mountain, but at the same time was a useful exercise in forcing myself to slow down and conserve energy. I started talking to people around me and met some great people. All in all, I was in a very good state, feeling like I was running at a sustainable pace. At this stage I was using a bottle with Hammer Perpetuem every two hours or so, a GU every hour, and supplementing with water from my hydropack. I also tried to graze the aid station tables, particularly for fruit (bananas, oranges, melon). Because of the heat I didn’t plan any splits for the early stations, but was pleased that I was not too far off 24 hour pace. At this stage I was fantasizing that despite the heat, I had a 24 hour finish (and the magical silver buckle) within me.

Red Star Ridge (Credit: Facchino Photography)

The only slightly worrying thing about Red Star Ridge was that I weighed in somewhat below my starting weight. In general, over the last 20 years, I have consistently weighed about 175-180 lb (79-82 kg), which sits somewhat skinnily on my 6’3” frame. Over six months of training, I lost about 10 pounds, and weighed in the day before the race at 166 lb. At Red Star Ridge, I came in at 160 lb. That was just over the 3% loss that they think is acceptable before dehydration becomes a factor. I had been drinking frequently and had peed a couple of times so didn’t think that was a worry for me; but I would have conversations with a number of medics before the day was out!

Red Star Ridge to Robinson Flat (Mile 29.7; 11.57am; 224th place): I pulled into Red Star Ridge around 8.30am and it was already starting to get warm. I had a drop bag there and changed out of my long sleeve Icebreaker (merino wool) top and into a short sleeve running T. This section of the course took us along canyon ridges some more before our first canyon crossing at Duncan Canyon, with a long descent and equally-long ascent. It started getting very hot and I put on my “safari” hat; a cap with a neck flap. I looked ridiculous but it did a fantastic job all day of reflecting the heat away from my neck and face. I did the long hike out of the canyon with a couple of other guys, keeping a good pace, and got to Robinson Flat just after 12.00pm. I’d run 30 miles in 7 hours, which was about where I was hoping to be. 24 hours was starting to recede from possibility but I wasn’t that far away. More importantly, I felt strong and had the psychological benefit of meeting my crew here for the first time. I hadn’t realized the value of positive encouragement but it was tremendously helpful (“you’re looking great!”) and after getting some hummus and pita bread as a respite from GUs and Perpetuem, I was ready to go. I told them I hoped to get to Foresthill, at 62 miles, in about 8 hours more.

It's starting to get hot, but I have the hat that's up to the task! (Credit: Gary Wang)

Robinson Flat to Last Chance (Mile 43.8; 2.55pm; 213th place): Coming out of Robinson Flat we climbed Little Bald Hill and then began the long descent to Swinging Bridge, through a number of defunct gold-mining towns. By now it was early afternoon and temperatures felt like they were climbing above 100°F (35°C). But I was still feeling really good. I wasn’t pushing it, but I was running consistently and slowly passing people. I’d trained on a lot of descents in Hong Kong so I had confidence in my quads to endure the thrashing but still wanted to make sure I didn’t blow them out before the big hills to follow. During this section I passed Andre Blumberg, who I’d met in training for the event. Andre is doing the Grand Slam of 100s this summer and I knew he was not wanting to push it too hard during States. When I passed him he said he was happy that he was on 27 hour pace – this surprised me because I felt like I was still within range of 24 hours (though in reality I was consistently slipping further behind). He also said he was taking it easy in the heat. At this stage I wasn’t really feeling the heat too badly so I pushed. I retrospect I probably should have run with Andre for a while. I thought about that a lot as I was sitting halfway up Devil’s Thumb.

Last Chance to Michigan Bluff (Mile 55.7; 7.31pm; 242nd place): I had always felt that this section would be the toughest. It was the hottest part of the day, and I was about to undertake a rapid descent to Swinging Bridge and then climb up to Devil’s Thumb, and then another rapid cycle through El Dorado Canyon. Still, going down to Swinging Bridge I felt strong, and passed a few people on the run down. At the bottom I toyed with the idea of going down to the river but didn’t feel too hot so kept on the path and then stopped at a little waterfall that cuts across the trail. Here I doused myself in icy water and tried to cool down. I also took a GU in preparation for the energy I would need climbing out of the canyon. Big mistake.

As soon I started on the 1700 ‘ (500 m) climb, for the first time all day I felt really sluggish. This climb was hard! I thought I would come right, but the further I went the worse I felt. I stopped, I drank, nothing seemed to really help. I cursed my friend, Steve Lukey, who had first told me about States. Then I started feeling REALLY bad. I stopped again, but before I knew it I was hunched over on the side of the trail bringing the GU back up. Ugh. I’d felt nauseous before in ultras (OK, I’ve felt nauseous in pretty much every ultra!), but I’d never actually vomited before. I felt like crawling into a hole and going to sleep. I sat on the side of the trail and a bunch of runners came past. They asked if I was OK and I lied (“I’m fine”). I sat for about 10 minutes, then decided that the race was not going to finish itself, and slowly trudged up the remaining distance to the Devil’s Thumb aid station. I had the very real feeling that the wheels were starting to fall off my Western States fantasy.

I weighed in at Devil’s Thumb at 158 lb. That was a little scary; it has been many, many years since I weighed that little. I was still feeling very nauseous and asked if I could sit there. They said I could. They brought me some crackers and Sprite for my stomach, and I sat there hoping I could keep them down. A medic with a very intense stare came over to ask how I was doing. This time I didn’t lie. I was weak and feeling very ill, and I really didn’t know how I was going to get going. But as I sat there, I slowly began to feel a little more normal. The medic came back and suggested that I get going. “Thanks,” I said, “but I’ll stay here a few more minutes.” “No,” he said, “you need to be going. Sitting here isn’t going to get to you closer to Auburn, and the blood is going to start pooling in your legs.” It was tough love, but it was necessary. I didn’t really want to go, but I took some more crackers, had a salt tablet, and filled my bottle with electrolytes (no more Perpetuem for me – I’d also thrown up some of that and had no desire to take it again), and headed down the trail.

Satisfaction with being on the move again was short-lived, however. I was walking from the aid station when my legs started cramping. The most violent cramps occurred simultaneously in my calves, tightening them and so raising my heel so strongly that I could do nothing but lose my balance and fall over on the trail. Lying there it was not just my ego that was bruised – my calves continued to cramp and I struggled to reach my toes to stretch them out. In those moments I just had no idea how I was going to walk to the nearest aid station, let along run more than 50 miles to the finish. But after an agonizing minute or so I managed to stretch out, and made it back to my feet just in time for two people to come down the trail. One of them turned out to be a medic, Jeff, walking 30 miles from Robinson Flat to Foresthill, looking for cases that needed his attention. I was certainly one. Jeff helped me make sure that I was feeling OK, then started walking with me towards El Dorado canyon.

Then, something surprising happened. In his company, after my challenges of climbing Devil’s Thumb and cramping uncontrollably, in only a few minutes I started feeling well enough to start a shuffle. Jeff was pleased by this progress and gave me considerable encouragement to keep it going at a slow, sustainable pace. Over the next hour I kept up a mix of shuffling and walking, but it was still very hot and I could feel the heat sapping all my strength. Still, it was pleasing to be moving forward.
However, I started to feel that I was overheating again as I approached the bottom of El Dorado canyon. At the aid station right at the bottom of the canyon I went down to the river and slipped into its icy waters. As I sat there Andre came to the aid station. I walked back up from the river to see him – he looked fantastic, really strong and full of energy. I, on the other hand, started to feel sick and faint and I was dreading what I knew was going to be a long haul up out of the canyon – not as steep as Devil’s Thumb but a longer hike. Andre was keen to get going and wanted me to go with him. I said no, I needed time to get some more food in my stomach and I didn’t want to start the climb until I was feeling OK. So off he went, and down I stayed at the aid station, and I was pretty sure that would be the last I would see of him until the finish (which was true, but not in the way I expected). I waited another 5-10 mins and then felt a little better so got going. As I started hiking up I felt some strength return and tucked in behind another runner who was also feeling the effects of the day and the heat, and the two of us made good progress up the hill. In fact, by the time we were halfway up, we were hiking strongly, my cramps and nausea had disappeared, and I was starting to feel like a different person. At the top of the climb I started running the very short distance to the aid station at Michigan Bluff; maybe I had some fight left. The pleasant surprise for me was that my crew, who I had assumed I wouldn’t see until Foresthill, made it to Michigan Bluff. So, earlier than I expected, I was able to change everything (shirt, shorts, socks, shoes). It was about 7.30pm, the day was cooling down, and I’d made it to 55 miles. Things were starting to look up.

Michigan Bluff to Foresthill (Mile 62; 9.06pm; 212th place): This short passage was the end of my time alone (since I would pick up my first pacer, Michelle, at Foresthill), and the start of cooler nighttime temperatures. In the happy confusion of having my crew appear at Michigan Bluff I had neglected to take the back up light that I intended to carry in case it got dark in Volcano canyon. I realized my mistake about 3-4 mins out from the aid station, but figured it would take me about an hour to get through the canyon to Bath Road, and that there should still be sufficient light at 8.30pm. The first part of the trail after Michigan Bluff was uphill, but I seemed to be hiking stronger than those around me, and when I got to the top I started running at a good pace. This was the first sign to me that despite my trials around Devil’s Thumb, I was going to be able to come back. Volcano Canyon is relatively gentle after the other canyons that the runners have already been through, and going through at dusk with a growing sense that I had reserves of energy to be tapped, I really enjoyed this section. The descent into the canyon was not too steep, and my quads were holding up fairly well from the day’s work (possibly aided by the stomach problems, which saw me descend some of the earlier canyons fairly slowly). I powerhiked up the other side to Bath Road aid station, and was able to maintain a strong pace. I quickly went through the aid station and then walked up the hill towards Foresthill, getting to the town just after 9.00pm as it was starting to get fairly dark. Good timing with my lack of light!

Foresthill to Green Gate (Mile 79.8; 2.02am; 178th place): Foresthill was a huge milestone. I’ve run a number of 100km events previously, and always been exhausted at the end. Foresthill was almost exactly at 100km, so I had been worried that I would struggle after this point, heading into the great unknown. In fact, I was feeling very good here. I made it in just over 16 hours, which was the fastest I’d ever run 100km. Michelle, my first pacer, met me before the aid station and guided me through it. I weighed in at 160lb (not great, but consistent since my first weigh in about 12 hours earlier, and I wasn’t losing more weight). I’d heard that the use of the Foresthill School bathroom was somewhat luxurious, so I made sure I used the facilities (and I concur with the advice!). Michelle then took me down the road to our crew. It was great to see them but after changing all my gear at Michigan Bluff there was relatively little to do besides grabbing some food and making sure I had both primary and backup headlamps! With that all done, Michelle and I set off.

Michelle and I ready to go at Foresthill

The next section is another icon Western States: Cal Street. The trail initially goes steadily downhill for a couple of miles and then undulates up and down for the next 16 miles, ending at the American River and the famous river crossing (more on that soon). I’d never run with a pacer before, since my other events have required runners to be self-sufficient. I wasn’t quite sure if I wanted Michelle to take the lead, in order to help me keep up a good pace, or go behind me so that I could push when I felt good but also take it easier when I needed to back off. In the end it seemed easier to take the latter approach, so I led and Michelle followed, offering encouragement, information about the trail, and just making conversation to keep my mind off all the work that my body was doing. We quickly felt good about how we were going. I was able to maintain my good pace from the last section, and started to pass increasing numbers of runners who were struggling from the day’s trials. I was surprised by the heights of some of the hills; in my mind Cal Street was for running but there were considerable periods of uphill hiking. Still, having run over 60 miles, I was still going well when the trail was flat or downhill. Looking at my pace, I was averaging 15 minute miles in this section (and much of the rest of the race), which doesn’t sound very fast but is only slightly slower than I was going at the start (13-14 min miles). And thus is the ultramarathoning truism; it is not how much faster you can go towards the end but how little you slow down. I didn’t slow down much in the last 40 miles, and felt like I was running like the wind!

Michelle and I ran together for five hours, and slowly we ticked off the aid stations down Cal Street. She had such a positive attitude that it really kept me feeling upbeat, particularly during the early part of the evening when I was worried that the sleep demons would attack me. As I had heard, we would approach the river and then it would recede, but eventually its sounds got stronger and finally we could see the lights ahead that meant one thing: the Rucky Chucky river crossing.

Crossing the American River (Credit: Facchino Photography)

The river crossing is a key moment at Western States for many reasons. It occurs with just over 20 miles to go, so for the leaders it represents a key marker. For the mid-pack runners, it means that you’re 80% done; most of us would consider a 20 mile run to be a solid but routine workout, and now you only need to get that done to finish. But more importantly, it is a special event in a special race. The Middle Fork of the American River is a serious river, sending vast quantities of water crashing through the canyons that it has carved out over millennia. Not many ultramarathons ford such imposing barriers. Western States has two methods; if the water is high runners are ferried across in rafts, whereas when the water is lower they wade across using a cable. Remarkably, standing along this cable in freezing water are teams of volunteers, so that runners receive precise instructions as to where to put each step. We reached the river in high spirits. I weighed in again at 158lbs, having lost the two pounds that I put on in Foresthill. However, whereas at Devil’s Thumb this indicated a meltdown by my body, here I was full of energy, and managed to persuade the medics that I was running strong and feeling great. They quickly agreed to let me on my way, which was down to the crossing. The water was icy, and the waist-high crossing saw me suddenly clarify which parts of my sensitive regions had been rubbing over the previous 80 miles. But I was cracking jokes with (and thanking) all the volunteers in the river and I got the sense that not all runners were in such a positive frame of mind at 1.30am. We got across fairly quickly and then powerhiked up the hill to Green Gate, where I would bid farewell to Michelle and get Charito as my second pacer. Walking up the hill in wet socks I was suddenly aware of some blisters on my right forefoot, and worried briefly that the 1.5 miles to the next aid station would exacerbate them, but in the end they were OK and in Green Gate my wonderful crew were there with fresh socks and shoes. And a chair, oh yes, a chair. Sitting down was fantastic, but temporary. I had 20 miles to run and I wanted that buckle.

Green Gate to Placer High School (Mile 100.2; 7.23am; 138th place): Charito and I left Green Gate at about 2.00am, in what would pass for the cool of the night. Other runners felt that the warm night was a major challenge, but after a summer of heat training in Hong Kong I found it nice and cool, and it continued to help my energy levels. At the back of my mind I liked the idea of chasing Andre, who I had last seen at the bottom of El Dorado Canyon but whom I felt I ought to be catching given my relatively strong pace. (Little did I know that in fact Andre was chasing me. He’d seen me pass through Michigan Bluff when he was changing shoes. He also felt good over the final 40 miles and had high hopes of catching me. In the end, we ran almost the same pace stage after stage and I managed to beat him by 10 minutes!). So I was off chasing ghosts, not so fast as to be unsustainable, but enough to keep pushing as much as possible. Charito seemed to think that we were moving well, which was encouraging, as was her encyclopedic knowledge of the trail (“OK, a short rise here, then we’ll go through a series of winding corners.”) We started passing people fairly regularly, and my energy showed no signs of dissipating. The first aid station we came to was Auburn Lake Trails, which was at the top of a small but steep rise. For some reason, as we approached it, I decided I was going to run all the way up the rise. The vocal encouragement that we received seemed (at least to me) to amplify in volume as I ran the whole way up the rise; I suspect that at that time of night most people were walking up. 15 miles to go and it was only 3.40am; I had over 7 hours to do those miles and finish in the required time. I’d been confident for a while that this was actually going to happen but it was at ALT that I really started to believe. I was actually going to run 100 miles, and do it at one of the most prestigious events in ultramarathoning.

Charito and I continued making good progress through Brown’s Bar, and down to the river below Highway 49. Charito was a very calming presence, helping me break the remaining miles into manageable chunks and encouraging me to keep up our pace. We continued to pass people, some of whom were clearly struggling but determined to tough out a finish. I was pleased to come across Marcus Warner of the website Ultra168, and shout out “love your work” as I ran past. The last mile or so up to Highway 49, however, is a climb, and I began to feel that the day was catching up with me. A runner and his pacer that I’d passed caught up with Charito and I, and with only 6.5 miles left I was beginning to struggle for motivation (pretty sure that I would finish and not too worried about whether it was 26 or 27 hours). But still, it was good crossing the highway and thanking the police for their traffic control. Then up to the meadow at Cool, CA, and the long downhill to No Hands Bridge that Charito promised me was the most wonderful downhill in all of trail running but I feared, correctly, would be a challenge on my quads which were now pretty well burnt out. We went past another friend, Jose Nicolas from Singapore; Jose had dropped at 90 miles last year but now he was looking good and I was excited for him that he was going to finish. Running downhill with the other runner from the climb to the highway still right behind me, I suddenly just snapped; I didn’t need this pressure and I was running too fast given the now dwindling reserves of energy. I stopped, on the pretense of needing to pee (actually, dehydration had set in and it was an unsuccessful attempt), and let him go past. I took another GU (still doing one per hour, and vowing each would be my last), and then I walked for a while to help it digest. Another runner and his pacer overtook me. I was only about five miles from home but I was running on empty. I was hurting all over my body. It was going to be a slog to finally get to the finish.

We finally got to No Hands Bridge, which sits just below Auburn. If you get there at night, it is lit up, but we were there about 6.30am, so the sun had risen. I ran down a small slope and stopped at the aid station to grab a last top-up of water, but as my legs slowed I felt a little dizzy and faint. My crew had shown up, and it was pretty clear to them and the aid station volunteers that I was starting to crash. However, since I’d run 96 miles, everyone seemed OK with me taking it easy but keeping on going. I walked across No Hands eating bananas and chatting with Chrissy, Kristina, and Charito. I was ready for this day to be over but still had the climb to Robie Point and the run through Auburn to come. Just as I was about to leave the bridge I decided that I needed to touch the railing; I didn’t want to cross a locale as significant as No Hands Bridge without having a tactile sensation of it. I took a couple of steps over and slapped the railing. As I did so, I didn’t notice that the bridge sloped down at the side, and I started to fall towards a railing that suddenly seemed quite short and unlikely to support 6’3” of tired runner. Charito let out an anxious cry and I managed to get my balance. I had not run for over 24 hours just to fall into the river! Onward and (literally) upward.

And, suddenly, I was still tired but I was running again. Just after the bridge we passed one of the runners who had come past me before No Hands, and then the runner who’d been breathing down my neck came into view ahead. Charito told me that my wife Sasha had got up at 6am and driven herself and our kids (Max, 9, and Alyssa, 6) on the wrong side of the road (Hong Kong shows its British heritage by driving on the left) to Placer High School, and they were waiting for us to finish. Suddenly I wanted to be with them. We ran to the base of the hill and then started hiking up. Before too long, we started meeting people who had come down from the top. We were climbing up to Robie Point. Which is one mile from the finish. It was just after 7am. I had four hours. I was going to finish States.

Not far to go (Credit: Patchanida Pongsubkarun)

Charito bringing a tired runner home (Credit: Patchanida Pongsubkarun)

Satisfyingly, the runner who had passed me stopped into the Robie Point aid station but Charito and I went straight past. We continued hiking up and then met Kristina at the top of the hill. The three of us started running down, and I had enough energy in some final reserve to put in a pretty solid pace through the streets. The benefit of not finishing in under 24 hours was that at 7.15am plenty of people were up and cheering on the runners. A lot of people were saying, with what seemed genuine feeling, “Congratulations.” I was almost there. We continued running down, then up a small rise, then down again. Then Kristina took off (OK, so I wasn’t running that fast!) to coordinate with everyone at the finish, and shortly after we followed, making it to the hallowed ground of the Placer High School track.
One more, and final, iconic location at Western States. Most ultras finish on a dusty trail, or a carpark, or a field. States finishes on a real track. You go into the high school and run 300 meters around the track to the finish. Unless you are Brian Morrison (look it up), or you get there at 10.59am, if you get to the track then you get to finish States. And, if you’re lucky, you get to celebrate with your family and friends. Charito and I made it to the track and sure enough, Sasha  and the kids were there to join me for the celebratory finish. I had worried that I would be crying my eyes out at the emotion but having my family there just made me excited and happy. Down the back straight I suddenly yelled out, to no-one in particular, “I’m on the track!” I really couldn’t believe it, after all the hard work of the previous 26 hours. The great thing about Western States was that there were a bunch of people around, and they all seemed to get it: “Hell yeah, he’s on the track!” We ran around the track together, then Charito peeled off to run down the pacers’ lane leaving the kids and I to make it down the home stretch and under the finisher’s arch in 26 hours, 23 minutes, and 1 second, for 138th place, out of 388 who started and 277 who finished within the 30 hour cutoff. I’d passed over 100 people since Michigan Bluff, and from Foresthill had been passed by only a handful of other runners.

The kids and I are almost there. Charito is racing us behind the Roctane banner. (Credit: Tonya Perme)

The finish!

Across the line! (Credit: Facchino Photography)

Max takes the glory. Alyssa looks after her Dad. (Credit: Facchino Photography)

I hugged Sasha and the kids, and then Chrissy, Kristina, Charito, and Michelle. It had been a team effort, but we’d done it. I’d done it. I had no idea if I could actually run that far, in the heat, up and down steep hills. But I did. You really have no idea what you’re capable of until you try it. The crazy thing is, despite vomiting and cramping that you would think should derail such an endeavor, I had a really great day. I spent 90% of the day feeling strong and in control. I dealt with the 10% where I felt terrible. Of all the ultras I’ve run this was without a doubt the best executed race that I’ve attempted. To do that on my first 100 miler, and at Western States, is pretty unbelievable. That’s why this race report is so long. I’ve written it for me, so that I remember this amazing day. Thanks for taking the time to join me.

Buckles of greatness: with fellow Asians Jose Nicolas and Andre Blumberg (Credit: Patchanida Pongsubkarun)

Time to put those 8 lbs back on! Celebration meal.

Epilogue: Thanks
This was a solo pursuit made possible by a huge team of people; thanks to all of them.

First, thanks so much to Chrissy, Kristina, Charito, and Michelle for all the help getting me to the finish line (and Jennifer for the moral support). It is possible that I would have made it on my own. But it would have been slower, and more importantly, it would not have been half the fun. All my previous races have been solo efforts. But crewing and pacing are big parts of the US ultra scene, and when I got accepted for States I wanted to experience that culture as much as possible. Accepting Chrissy’s kind offer of help was the best choice I could have made. Chrissy, you were a fantastic crew chief. Everyone kept my spirits up and made the whole day so great. I really owe everyone in the group so much.

Thanks too to Kevin Moore, of Optimum Performance Studio in Hong Kong, for working with me on my stride – 100 miles and my knees were fine!

Huge amounts of praise for Craig Thornley (race director) and the incredible team behind the legend that is Western States. The legend is alive and well. It is simply unbelievable how much passion goes into this event. It was such a privilege to be able to participate.

Finally, training for an ultra takes a tremendous amount of time, and I was very aware that this was time I wasn’t spending with my family. One needs a very understanding spouse, and I'm very lucky to have that! Then they all had to entertain themselves for 24 hours, and wait with me in a hot tent just so that I could get my buckle. Sasha and the kids provided such amazing support for me, and I'm just so grateful.

The following was supposed to have been read out by the Western States PA announcer but there were too many other people finishing with me:
“And so much love to my amazing family Sasha, Max, and Alyssa -- without you I wouldn't have even made it to the start line! Now that Daddy's finally had his midlife crisis, let's all go to Disneyland!”
And we did!

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Major training is over!


Three weeks out from Western States and I’m done with my serious training. From here, I’ll taper; gradually winding down the running so that (at least in theory!) I show up at the start line well rested and ready to go. This last week was the most I’ve run in a seven day period, and went like this:

Monday: 20km, 2 hrs 23 mins
Tuesday: 10km, 1 hr 1 min
Wednesday: 19.3km, 2 hrs 9 mins
Thursday: 10.3km, 58 mins
Friday: 41.2km, 6 hrs 44 mins
Saturday: Rest!
Sunday: 30.2km, 4 hrs 15 mins

Total: 131.1km (81.4 miles), 17 hrs 33 mins, 4700m vertical ascent

And all this with the weather having hit tropical summer: 30°+C, 80-95% humidity. There will certainly be fitter people lining up on the start line than me, there will be people who’ve run a lot more than me, but there won’t be many who’ve trained in such adverse conditions. After about two hours of running, no matter how slow you go, the humidity causes you to overheat, and it is very hard to keep moving forward. You need to keep eating to maintain energy, but the last thing you want to do is put anything in your stomach.

So I feel like I’m in a pretty good place in terms of my general fitness and ability to deal with adverse weather conditions. Western States is likely to be hot (this week it hit 40°C at the start line), but dry, and so hopefully easier to cope with.

The main concern is whether I’ve put enough miles on my legs. 100 miles is a long way to run, and it is going to hurt. The hot weather makes it hard to have run enough to get my legs ready for continual motion for 30 hours. It being my first (and last?) 100 miler, I really have no idea.

Still, I’m pretty happy to get to the end of the major training block and still be injury free (touch wood!). Also, my very long suffering family is ready for me to stop disappearing for hours on end in my solo pursuits. They even let me have a nap this afternoon after a 5.30am alarm woke me up today.

Today’s run was with Andre Blumberg and Jose Nicolas, two other Asian runners who will show up at Squaw Valley in three weeks. Great to meet some other people crazy enough to do this. The hard work is done – it’s now time to rest, recover, and get excited for what lies ahead.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Land of the spiders


Four weeks until Western States and it is starting to seem very real. When I found out (from Twitter, where else?) that my name had been drawn in the lottery, back in December, I was excited to join such an iconic race but I didn’t really know what it would take to get me in 100 mile shape. I still don’t really know, or at least won’t find out until I (hopefully!) get to the track at Placer High School in Auburn, CA, which is the finish. But I know that I’ve got myself into the best shape I could have, given the strictures of daily life. I’ve slowly been building mileage all year, from 211km (131 miles) in January to 360km (223 miles) in March and now 412km (256 miles) in May. I’ve been running consistently for the last 10 years but I’ve never put in mileage like this, so for me it feels like a heavy load. I’ve enjoyed it, but I’m also ready for this race to be over so I can get back to a normal life. Many runners in the ultra community seem to do several 100 milers a year but I suspect that this is the only one I’ll ever do (especially if I can finish it!).

My ultra career is now about two and a half years old. After running a few marathons (PB: 3.22.59), I was gazing out my office window on a polluted day (unfortunately typical in Hong Kong), and started googling trail running events in New Zealand (which is where I’m originally from). I found the “Kepler Challenge”, a 60km race around a beautiful national park in Fiordland (lakes, mountains, forests, streams; Google “Kepler Challenge” now, I promise you won’t regret it). I figured if I could do a marathon then I could do this, even if it took me a long time. So I managed to get an entry and then in December 2010 took my family to the town of Te Anau for the race (little did they know this would just be the start of ultra-running tourism). It was a fantastic experience, unlike any running I’d ever done, and I was hooked. Of course, it being my first race, I blew up at about 40km and limped home, but the fact that I’d run in 7 and a half hours a track that many of my friends and family had taken four days to hike gave me a tremendous feeling of achievement.

Since then I’ve run various 50km, 60km, and 100km events in Hong Kong, along with CCC, little sister of the more famous UTMB, around Mont Blanc in Europe. The CCC is 100km, starting in Courmayeur (Italy), running up into Switzerland, and then finishing back in Chamonix (France). I trained for six months in 2012, doing what I thought was a heavy load (highest month: 286km). The CCC is very hilly (you climb about 5000m, or 16400 feet, over the course of the race), so you need to train for hill climbing as well as running. The weekend of our event saw a huge storm come through the mountains, so most of our race had us battling rain at lower altitudes and snow as we got up to 2000m (6500 feet) in altitude. There were 2000 competitors, which was enough pairs of feet to turn the trail in a muddy goop for hours on end. And I’ve never been so cold – at one stage I was shivering uncontrollably in a refuge high on a hill in what felt like -10°C (14°F), and as I mentioned in my last post I lost some feeling in my fingers that didn’t return fully for six months after the event! However, I finished, in 18 hours and 34 mins, a bit slower than I had hoped, but I really felt liked I survived something.

Since getting in to Western States, I’ve only run a couple of local events. In January, I ran the Hong Kong 100, a 100km event in Hong Kong’s hilly New Territories. The course has about 4500m vertical, approaching the CCC, and makes it a very difficult and tiring day out. I was fit, but not fit enough, and made the mistake of having an unrealistic target that I was aiming for. I made my target times through the first 40km, but then blew up again (is there a theme here?), feeling very sick and hopelessly weak just as I had to do another big climb. I struggled through about 8km to the halfway point, took a break for 20 minutes, then set off again feeling slightly better. With a lot of tender loving care for myself, I got through the next 50km and finished in 16 hours and 41 mins.  The lesson? Make sure you have a realistic plan and stick to it. Also, remember that the pace that feels easy during the first 20km is still way too fast, and is taking all the strength you’ll need for the second half of the race. Be nice to your future self, and slow down!

In March I ran a very hilly and overgrown 50km race, the Lantau 50. While my time was again a little slower than I thought I was capable of (7 hours 54 mins), I ran a much better planned race and came 30th out of almost 600 starters. Its no surprise why I did better – just started slower, hydrated carefully, took on as many calories as I could stomach (particularly early), and I was able to maintain a steady pace throughout. Can I be that smart in four weeks?

The last few weeks have been building mileage and trying to get in long runs at least once a week. I’m not very scientific in my training – I have a general sense of the things I need to do to get myself in as strong shape as possible, then I try to do that while fitting in with all the other things in my life that I need to get done. Also, it’s hard to run for long distances in the tropical heat. This week I spent one day on a trail on Lantau Island, a big but relatively undeveloped island in Hong Kong. With a friend I climbed two big hills (Sunset Peak, requiring a climb of about 800m, or 2600 feet, and then Lantau Peak, requiring another climb of 600m, or 2000 feet). I then continued alone for the rest of the day, ending up on fairly disused tracks that were crisscrossed for miles by huge spider webs, on which were sitting huge spiders. I’m a little arachnophobic so this was not cool. But I was in the middle of nowhere and going back didn’t seem like much of an option, so on I went, chopping the webs where I saw them and walking right through the ones that I didn’t see. All this while the ambient temperature was about 32°C (90°F) and humidity was about 85%. Not surprisingly, 50km took 10 and a half hours. I’m hoping for dry California air and a lack of spider webs in four weeks time. Sure, there may be the occasional black bear, but at least you can see them coming (you can see them coming, right?).

One more week of heavy training, then let the tapering begin!